Tbilisi, Georgia, Sept 2022

By Ali Karim
This post is part of a series called Georgia Sept 2022

Tbilisi, Georgia, Sept 2022

After Malaysia, our next trip was to Georgia, the country, in Western Asia neighboring Turkey & Chechyna. We flew from the US to Doha; overnighted there, and next day, flew to Tbilisi on Qatar airways. On the flight, we got talking to a lady named Oksana seated next to us, who very kindly offered to have her family drop us off to our hotel (Sheraton Grand Tbilisi Metechi Palace) in Tbilisi so that we would not get ripped off by a taxi; wonder if that was a widespread/common issue in Georgia or not; something we made a mental note to be careful about and watch out for. What great hospitality, and a great way to start our journey exploring Georgia.

A little about Georgia; it is a country in the Caucasus region on the coast of the Black Sea, with a population of over 3.9 million. Georgians, who are native to the region and constitute the majority of the population, are ethno-linguistically distinct from all of their neighboring nations and primarily speak Georgian, a Kartvelian language that has no relation to any other language family in the world.

Georgia has been inhabited since prehistory and is known for hosting the world’s earliest known sites of winemaking. More on this later as we visit the wine region of Georgia. In the early fourth century, Georgians officially adopted Christianity after St Nino of Cappadocia converted King Mirian III and Queen Nana. Beginning in the 15th century, the kingdom declined and disintegrated under relentless attacks from hostile empires, like the Mongols, the Ottoman Empire, and Persia. Georgia requested support from the Russian Empire, which ended up gradually annexing the country starting in 1801. After the Russian Revolution in 1917, Georgia briefly emerged as an independent republic under German protection. However, the country was invaded and annexed by the Red Army in 1921; it then became one of the republics of the Soviet Union. In the 1980s, an independence movement grew quickly, leading to Georgia’s secession from the Soviet Union in April 1991. There is a part of northern Georgia (Abkhazia & South Ossetia (Tskhinvali Region)) that was annexed by Russia following the Russo-Georgian War in August 2008. Sounds eerily similar to Russian invasion of Ukraine in Feb 2022.

We stayed in Tbilisi, the capital of Georgia, for multiple days over 3 stayovers in Tbilisi as we traveled through Georgia. The Tbilisi blogs cover all the time in Tbilisi over these multiple stays. The Sheraton is an older hotel, not quite a Palace but had the title of a Palace. We chose this hotel as it was relatively cheap on Marriott points and centrally located.

The first day was spent using the nice spa at the hotel, followed by a massage and facial for Dilshad at a place recommended online for massages in the Vake district of Tbilisi and we took an Uber to the location. Ubers were plentiful, safe, reasonably cheap ($1-$5) and with pricing pre-arranged, we had little fear of getting ripped off. So we used Ubers all our time in Tbilisi. However, the traffic was plentiful everywhere most of the time so we did spend a little time in traffic every time we took a car ride.

After the relaxing massages (& a facial for Dilshad), walked a little in Vake area and stopped for a tea break

Tbilisi, Georgia, Sept 2022, Tiny person taking a relaxing hot bath in my teacup; is actually a tea-leaf infuser :)
Tiny person taking a relaxing hot bath in my teacup; is actually a tea-leaf infuser 🙂

From Vake, we took an Uber to the Freedom Square in the city center; and walked around the old town and had dinner at Pasanauri restaurant, a typical Georgian restaurant.

Tbilisi, Georgia, Sept 2022, Chilling in old Tbilisi area
Chilling in old Tbilisi area
Tbilisi, Georgia, Sept 2022, Traditional Georgian cuisine at Pasanauri
Traditional Georgian cuisine at Pasanauri
Tbilisi, Georgia, Sept 2022, This restaurant had an English menu; pointing to a tourist centered restaurant. Other places had little to no English; though there are definitely many foreign tourists that come to Georgia.
This restaurant had an English menu; pointing to a tourist centered restaurant. Other places had little to no English; though there are definitely many foreign tourists that come to Georgia. Costs were very reasonable with a main course costing roughly $8-9 in this touristed restaurant. Looking forward to much cheaper meals at local restaurants 🙂 .

After the Below are some of the sights as we explored old Tbilisi, which was the most interesting. As expected from a country that adopted Christianity very early, and a country that was occupied by Russia for many years, we saw a lot of orthodox churches and Soviet architecture.

Tbilisi, Georgia, Sept 2022, View of old town Tbilisi from our hotel, which was located on a hilltop overlooking the city and the Mtkvari (Kura) river running through Tbilisi
View of old town Tbilisi from our hotel, which was located on a hilltop overlooking the city and the Mtkvari (Kura) river running through Tbilisi
Tbilisi, Georgia, Sept 2022, The impressive Holy Trinity Cathedral of Tbilisi, commonly known as Sameba, can hold 10,000 worshippers and is one of the largest cathedrals in the world
The impressive Holy Trinity Cathedral of Tbilisi, commonly known as Sameba, can hold 10,000 worshippers and is one of the largest cathedrals in the world

Night views of Tbilisi

Next day, we took a free walking tour of Tbilisi, starting at Freedom (Liberty) Square with a small group. We went through old Tbilisi and below are some images from there

Tbilisi, Georgia, Sept 2022, Freedom (Liberty) Square in central Tbilisi
Freedom (Liberty) Square in central Tbilisi
Tbilisi, Georgia, Sept 2022, Newer Tbilisi built over ancient Tbilisi
Newer Tbilisi built over ancient Tbilisi
Tbilisi, Georgia, Sept 2022, Old houses in Tbilisi; note the brown/copper metal piping on the outside that is used to pipe natural gas into the houses to heat them; a retrofit from the Soviet times
Old houses in Tbilisi; note the brown/copper metal piping on the outside that is used to pipe natural gas into the houses to heat them; a retrofit from the Soviet times
Tbilisi, Georgia, Sept 2022, Interconnection wooden bridges connecting houses
Interconnection wooden bridges connecting houses

Ancient Caravanserai in old Tbilisi; Tbilisi used to be on a minor branch of the Silk Road at one time.

Tbilisi, Georgia, Sept 2022, More older housing
More older housing
Tbilisi, Georgia, Sept 2022, Street Art in the old town
Street Art in the old town
Tbilisi, Georgia, Sept 2022, This is an entrance to a marani, a traditional Georgian underground wine cellar used to store quevri’s in which wine was fermented and stored. Found in old Tbilisi.
This is an entrance to a marani, a traditional Georgian underground wine cellar used to store quevri’s in which wine was fermented and stored. Found in old Tbilisi.
Tbilisi, Georgia, Sept 2022, The Rezo Gabriadze Marionette Theatre, that still does Marionette shows
The Rezo Gabriadze Marionette Theatre, that still does Marionette shows. The “balcony door” above the clock tower opens every hour on the hour and a puppet comes out and rings a bell.
Tbilisi, Georgia, Sept 2022, The Anchiskhati Basilica of St Mary is the oldest surviving church in Tbilisi, Georgia. It belongs to the Georgian Orthodox Church and dates from the sixth century.
The Anchiskhati Basilica of St Mary is the oldest surviving church in Tbilisi, Georgia. It belongs to the Georgian Orthodox Church and dates from the sixth century.
Tbilisi, Georgia, Sept 2022, Old Russian GAZ-69 “Jeep” classic 4-wheel drive military vehicle with the original silver bear hood ornament; upgraded and for sale
Old Russian GAZ-69 “Jeep” classic 4-wheel drive military vehicle with the original silver bear hood ornament; upgraded and for sale
Tbilisi, Georgia, Sept 2022, The Presidential Palace, as seen across the Kura river from old town Tbilisi
The Presidential Palace, as seen across the Kura river from old town Tbilisi
Tbilisi, Georgia, Sept 2022, Refreshment stop
Refreshment stop
Tbilisi, Georgia, Sept 2022, Street life during the day, Old Tbilisi
Street life during the day, Old Tbilisi
Tbilisi, Georgia, Sept 2022, We came across the Tbilisi Central mosque (Juma Mosque), and home of the Administration of Muslims of all Georgia. A pleasant surprise in this staunchly Christian Orthodox country, where all faiths peacefully co-exist.
We came across the Tbilisi Central mosque (Juma Mosque), and home of the Administration of Muslims of all Georgia. A pleasant surprise in this staunchly Christian Orthodox country, where all faiths peacefully co-exist.
Tbilisi, Georgia, Sept 2022, The Narikala fortress, right behind the mosque. Originally built in the 4th century and then expanded in the 8th century. More on the fort later
The Narikala fortress, right behind the mosque. Originally built in the 4th century and then expanded in the 8th century. More on the fort later

Since we took too long at the mosque, we got left behind by the walking tour, so we completed the rest of the day on our own.

Tbilisi, Georgia, Sept 2022, The First Bridge of Love (those are red and other colored padlocks on the bridge)
The First Bridge of Love (those are red and other colored padlocks on the bridge)

While walking in this area, we ran into a group of young men & women, who were definitely Indians. We got talking to them and found out they were all in Georgia studying Medicine at the Tbilisi State Medical University in Tbilisi. Why did they come to Georgia to study medicine? Because it is affordable ($7k per year), not as difficult to get admission into, the medium of study is English, and credentials are internationally recognized. This is the same experience we had in Osh, Kyrgyzstan when we ran into similar young Indian students at the local market.

Tbilisi, Georgia, Sept 2022, Second Bridge of Love (designated by the padlocks) and the Leghvtakhevi Canyon behind.
Second Bridge of Love (designated by the padlocks) and the Leghvtakhevi Canyon behind.
Tbilisi, Georgia, Sept 2022, The traditional style sulphur baths (center, Gulo’s Thermal Spa) from olden times; still in use
The traditional style sulphur baths (center, Gulo’s Thermal Spa) from olden times; still in use
Tbilisi, Georgia, Sept 2022, The Orbeliani Baths, also known as Chreli Abano (the
The Orbeliani Baths, also known as Chreli Abano (the “Colorful Bath”), an upscale sulfur bathhouse in Tbilisi’s Abanotubani district. The facade is reminiscent of an Uzbek or Persian madrasa, adorned with intricate mosaic tilework and two small minarets.
Tbilisi, Georgia, Sept 2022, Traditional style of older housing; wooden constructions and balconies
Traditional style of older housing; wooden constructions and balconies
Tbilisi, Georgia, Sept 2022, Metekhi Church of the Nativity of the Virgin Mary, one of the most iconic and historic landmarks in Tbilisi, perched on the Metekhi Cliff, overlooking the Kura River. The large bronze equestrian statue on left is that of King Vakhtang Gorgasali, the legendary founder of Tbilisi.
Metekhi Church of the Nativity of the Virgin Mary, one of the most iconic and historic landmarks in Tbilisi, perched on the Metekhi Cliff, overlooking the Kura River. The large bronze equestrian statue on left is that of King Vakhtang Gorgasali, the legendary founder of Tbilisi.
Tbilisi, Georgia, Sept 2022, Houses perched on the cliffs above the Kura river; precarious
Houses perched on the cliffs above the Kura river; precarious
Tbilisi, Georgia, Sept 2022, The pedestrian Bridge of Peace connecting Old Tbilisi to the newer city on right
The pedestrian Bridge of Peace connecting Old Tbilisi to the newer city on right
Tbilisi, Georgia, Sept 2022, The Rike Music and Exhibition Center on the modern side of the Kura river in Rike Park; with the Presidential palace in the back.
The Rike Music and Exhibition Center on the modern side of the Kura river in Rike Park; with the Presidential palace in the back.
Tbilisi, Georgia, Sept 2022, The Great Synagogue; a Jewish temple in the old town; again, a testament to peaceful co-existence.
The Great Synagogue; a Jewish temple in the old town; again, a testament to peaceful co-existence.
Tbilisi, Georgia, Sept 2022, Towards the end of the day, we sat on a patio with wine, salad, & people watching, to complete a very nice day.
Towards the end of the day, we sat on a patio with wine, salad, & people watching, to complete a very nice day.

After this, it was a short Uber ride back to the hotel to relax and freshen up.

Panoramic views of Tbilisi during the day

Tbilisi, Georgia, Sept 2022, Dusk over old Tbilisi
Dusk over old Tbilisi

Then it was an Uber ride back to the old town for dinner. Dinner was trout and spicy noodles at nice Georgian restaurant in old Tbilisi.

Tbilisi, Georgia, Sept 2022, Dinner of trout and spicy noodles
Dinner of trout and spicy noodles
Tbilisi, Georgia, Sept 2022, Dinner was in the old town below the Narikala fortress
Dinner was in the old town below the Narikala fortress

So far, a very nice time in Tbilisi. More on other explorations of Tbilisi in the next blog….

Our trip so far

Tbilisi, Georgia, Sept 2022, Our trip so far
Our trip so far
This entry was posted in Asia, Georgia, Tbilisi

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *