Coffee region and Valle de Cocora, Colombia, Dec 2021

After Cartagena, we flew into central Colombia, to the highland area where coffee is grown. We flew into the city of Pereira, and then drove to the town of Manizales, where we had booked at the Mirador Finca Morrogacho Majid B&B, just outside the town. Manizales lies on the Colombian Central Mountain Range (part of the longest continental mountain range, the Andes), with a great deal of ridgelines and steep slopes, which, combined with the seismic instability of the area, has required architectural adaptations and public works to make the city safer. Even though Manizales has this very difficult topography, there are many coffee plantations in its fertile lands, and coffee is its main industry, followed by education and call centers.

Main reason for starting the Coffee region tour with Manizales were the great reviews of the B&B we were staying at, and the natural hot springs in this area. Our B&B was owned and run by Majid, who turned out to be a Iranian-Canadian who after spending years in the Canadian building industry, decided to move to Manizales and establish a B&B; which he build on a steep hillside. Nice  comfortable place, with amazing views. The only issue with this area is that it was mostly shrouded in cloudy mists and cool; I guess favorable for coffee plants. Some views below of Manizales town & area.

First stop in Manizales town was the rooftop (covered) Azatea restaurant

After walking around the downtown area and checking out the local churches, we took the cable car to the neighboring town of Villamaria. The city of Manizales built several cable car aerial tramway lines to transport people easily over quite hilly terrains; similar to what we had seen and used in Medellin, Colombia and were very successful there.

Villamaria was a nice laid-back town; and again, famous for coffee

We took the cable car back to Manizales and then went back at our B&B for the night. The next day, it had cleared up somewhat; so got some good views

We decided to check out the Otono Hot Springs or Termales el Otono. This was a short ride from our B&B and the place was quite nice, clean and well kept. After the hot natural baths, we had lunch, and then it started pouring down cats and dogs; about 2 inches in a an hours time. Once the rain subsided, we stopped for dinner and went back to the B&B.

Otono natural hot springs

Next day, we drove south from Manizales towards Pereira and then onto Salento. Some scenes along the drive south. First stop was in Chinchina town, where there was a large Juan Valdez facility, the iconic Colombian coffee brand.

Chinchina

Next stop was Santa Rosa de Cabal.

Santa Rosa de Cabal

These Willy (Willys MB) were produced during World War 2 and were highly successful American off-road capable, 4 wheel drive light military utility vehicles; which later were redesigned for civilian use and named “Jeep”. These Willys in Santa Rosa appeared to be in good shape and functional. I love old cars, so please bear with me; More on Willy Jeeps later.

We continued driving south and drove past Pereira city, and onto the town of Salento. Some views along the way

We arrived in Salento, and had booked in a local hotel, the Hotel Salento 1842, located in the central square in the evening. Soon as we got there, we noticed that there was a stage set up in the square and they were getting ready for music. Upon inquiring of the hotel staff, we discovered that this place would be very noisy till late at night. So, we talked to the staff and they kindly let us cancel with no charge, and instead, we went to the Betatown Salento Betahotel about 3 blocks away from the music, and checked in. Dinner was pasta and soup at a nearby local restaurant, followed by a stroll in the central square.

Salento central square and its love of Willys

This was the gathering for food and later, very loud music well into the night, that we avoided by changing our hotels

The only reason for coming to Salento, a small town of just over 10,000 people, was to check out the Valle de Cocora. So, the next day, after breakfast, we headed off to a specified cross street in Salento, where we boarded a Willys to take us to the Valle De Cocora. The Willys and Jeeps were the main way to take visitors to the Cocora valley, up to 11 passengers per vehicle.

The Valle de Cocora is located about 11kms from Salento, and is part of the Los Nevados National Natural Park, incorporated into the existing national park by the Colombian government in 1985. It is the main location where the national tree of Colombia, the Quindío wax palm (Ceroxylon quindiuense) can be found, as well as a wide variety of other flora and fauna (some endangered), all of which are protected under the park’s national status. This wax palm tree can grow up to 200m (600ft) tall and mainly grows in this region of the eastern part of the Andes mountains at high altitude. It is the tallest recorded monocot in the world. The trunk is cylindrical, smooth, light colored, covered with thick wax; leaf scars forming dark rings around the trunk. The few leaves (dark green and greyish) at the top of the tree are quite sparse. Some views as we hiked in this valley.

Video of the Cocora Valley

More Valle de Cocora

After spending most of the day hiking in this area; it was time to go back to Salento

After spending the night in Salento, we drove back to Pereira the next morning and flew onto Santa Marta with Avianca.

How did we feel and experiences? The whole coffee growing region was in the mountainous region, so clouds were ever-present, and many times were on the ground. It rained a lot (I guess we had gone in the rainy season) and so was damp and cool. Regardless, the landscapes were very beautiful and a sight for the eyes. Coffee was fresh and very tasty everywhere, and we did eat a lot of fresh trout caught in the local lakes/rivers, a treat for the smell and taste buds. The old school Willys and Jeeps were a pleasant surprise and not a sight one would see elsewhere. In addition, they were all in surprisingly good repair, given their age. The mountains also provided many natural hot springs, so provided good relaxation. People were nice, helpful, and friendly everywhere in this region, even though English was rarely spoken. The Cocora Valley with its unique very tall wax palms was another first for us, something we had not seen anywhere else in the world before; so, the trip to this part of the world was very well worth it for us.

Santa Marta next

Our trip through Colombia so far

This entry was posted in Coffee region Dec 2021, Colombia, South America, Valle de Cocora Dec 2021

• 2021
• Coffee region
• Colombia
• Valle de Cocora